Monday, December 13, 2010
Saturday, December 11, 2010
dreaming of orange skies and turquoise waves
back in orillia, canada where the living is easy but being homesick is hard.
i miss the sound of the ocean. i miss the smell of the ocean. i miss paddling into the ocean. i miss swimming in the ocean.
i miss sunsets and waves and beaches and dolphins.
what to do when it snows so much you can barely see 5 feet in front of you? eat. sleep. watch movies. knit.
a few more pics from my recent trip to hawaii to remind everyone why tropical climates and oceans rock the casbah.
Saturday, November 20, 2010
the many faces of mick cahir
mick looking happy.
mick looking thoughtful.
either way mick looks gorgeous.
especially with a beard.
again and again and again
there are millions of reasons why my Dad is the best Dad. one, of course, is that he wields a sweet as chainsaw like a pro. two, is that he will spend hours on the phone with lost baggage in hawaii and sydney and on the gold coast and with airlines and with customer service people and listen to me cry.
thats why my Dad's the best Dad.
what makes your Dad the best Dad?
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
after two delayed flights and one lost piece of luggage, i have finally made it to the north shore of hawaii!!
after arriving and checking into my hostel (located right across from waimea bay) i acquired myself a bicycle and a board and went off in surf of waves.
i settled on freddy's. north of pipeline and sunset. 1) because I have surfed there before, 2) because there weren't too many other people out, and 3) everywhere looked mental.
and who should paddle past me almost immediately after i paddled out? sally fitzgibbons and bethany hamilton. both who were absolutely ripping.
other celebrity spottings between leaving my room and biking to watch pipeline: rabbit, laurie towner, steph gilmore.
and what else is awesome about hawaii?? you can get sushi for 5 bucks and beer for under 10.
did I mention I LOVE this place?
after arriving and checking into my hostel (located right across from waimea bay) i acquired myself a bicycle and a board and went off in surf of waves.
i settled on freddy's. north of pipeline and sunset. 1) because I have surfed there before, 2) because there weren't too many other people out, and 3) everywhere looked mental.
and who should paddle past me almost immediately after i paddled out? sally fitzgibbons and bethany hamilton. both who were absolutely ripping.
other celebrity spottings between leaving my room and biking to watch pipeline: rabbit, laurie towner, steph gilmore.
and what else is awesome about hawaii?? you can get sushi for 5 bucks and beer for under 10.
did I mention I LOVE this place?
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
am i still alive out here?
still alive? well its been tough to say these days. still working my two jobs, but keeping the mental picture of myself getting into a barrel in hawaii and then eating canadian homecooking for a month straight to get me through it.
the weather has been off the chain here the last couple weeks. torrential downpour followed by short bursts of extreme heat and rays of light. not perfect, but as long as you run outside as soon as the sun shines down you are OK.
we have just had a few days with some heavy swell and offshore winds which has provided me with some much-needed surf stoke.
ive ridden every one of my boards in the last 3 days and even paddled into the biggest wave ive ridden yet. easily double-overhead, as confirmed by my roommate who was there to watch it go down...it was well worth the pounding that came immediately after it.
the black apache board i had been coveting sold, but i highly recommend checking out:
and
both are local shapers who are still making beautiful hand-crafted, high-quality surfboards. ya for surfboards.
the weather has been off the chain here the last couple weeks. torrential downpour followed by short bursts of extreme heat and rays of light. not perfect, but as long as you run outside as soon as the sun shines down you are OK.
we have just had a few days with some heavy swell and offshore winds which has provided me with some much-needed surf stoke.
ive ridden every one of my boards in the last 3 days and even paddled into the biggest wave ive ridden yet. easily double-overhead, as confirmed by my roommate who was there to watch it go down...it was well worth the pounding that came immediately after it.
the black apache board i had been coveting sold, but i highly recommend checking out:
and
both are local shapers who are still making beautiful hand-crafted, high-quality surfboards. ya for surfboards.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
work kills surf skills
i have seen that slogan painted on the window of the dilapitated house located on the route i take to get to work everyday.
the first time i saw it i kind of chuckled to myself. after it stayed on their window for a few months, along with the ping pong table on the front deck, the 3-6 cars parked on the front lawn at any given time, and the constant cluster of young 20somethings always partying, i would go by and think to myself, "You get a job."
well, after having spent the last 2 weeks working 2 full-time jobs, leaving myself with only enough time to go for short runs and bike from one job to the next, i look at that window as a life lesson. when a solid few days of swell comes in, and your cell phone is barraged with texts about where so-and-so just got the wave of the month and you are busy serving someone a hot, soy, decaf, weak latte...well folks, suffice to say i am not a happy camper at the moment.
all i can do is smile and serve my customers their chatty coffees, deposit my pay checks, and chant to myself over and over again: "Hawaii. Hawaii. Hawaii."
the first time i saw it i kind of chuckled to myself. after it stayed on their window for a few months, along with the ping pong table on the front deck, the 3-6 cars parked on the front lawn at any given time, and the constant cluster of young 20somethings always partying, i would go by and think to myself, "You get a job."
well, after having spent the last 2 weeks working 2 full-time jobs, leaving myself with only enough time to go for short runs and bike from one job to the next, i look at that window as a life lesson. when a solid few days of swell comes in, and your cell phone is barraged with texts about where so-and-so just got the wave of the month and you are busy serving someone a hot, soy, decaf, weak latte...well folks, suffice to say i am not a happy camper at the moment.
all i can do is smile and serve my customers their chatty coffees, deposit my pay checks, and chant to myself over and over again: "Hawaii. Hawaii. Hawaii."
Sunday, September 5, 2010
what gets you through a day at the office?
lucky me, i get to watch the billabong pro at teahupoo while sitting at my cozy front desk at work.
though the waves didn't look as big as it had in past years, it is still one of the most hectic waves on the planet. it breaks super heavy over such shallow dry reef. ouch. just the idea of surfing there makes my body hurt.
Andy Irons snipes his first V of the season, and just in time for the newly implemented cut offs in the top 45. his victory must have been that much sweeter considering he took out his long-time rival and sometime friend Kelly Slater in the semi's. with the way AI competes once he gets a few wins under his belt, hopefully this turns out to be a big season for him. cocky as the guy is, i love cheering for a comeback.
and a few words of mention for Lennox Head's very own Adam Melling who made it through to round 4 before being taken out by Kelly Slater. Melling, who lives just 20 minutes away from me in Byron, is killing it on his rookie year on the tour. he seems to really be finding his stride and feeling really comfortable on all the of the WCT tour venues. Go Melling Go!
**Melling also rides for Emery surfboards, my favourite shaper. I got to meet Al Emery the other day out at Lennox and I could barely look him in the eyes. I was so nervous to surf his board in front of him, especially because he just cut me a massive deal on a brand new shortboard he'd lent my roommate before I took it over. I could barely even paddle for a wave and totally kooked out. Next time though...**
though the waves didn't look as big as it had in past years, it is still one of the most hectic waves on the planet. it breaks super heavy over such shallow dry reef. ouch. just the idea of surfing there makes my body hurt.
Andy Irons snipes his first V of the season, and just in time for the newly implemented cut offs in the top 45. his victory must have been that much sweeter considering he took out his long-time rival and sometime friend Kelly Slater in the semi's. with the way AI competes once he gets a few wins under his belt, hopefully this turns out to be a big season for him. cocky as the guy is, i love cheering for a comeback.
and a few words of mention for Lennox Head's very own Adam Melling who made it through to round 4 before being taken out by Kelly Slater. Melling, who lives just 20 minutes away from me in Byron, is killing it on his rookie year on the tour. he seems to really be finding his stride and feeling really comfortable on all the of the WCT tour venues. Go Melling Go!
**Melling also rides for Emery surfboards, my favourite shaper. I got to meet Al Emery the other day out at Lennox and I could barely look him in the eyes. I was so nervous to surf his board in front of him, especially because he just cut me a massive deal on a brand new shortboard he'd lent my roommate before I took it over. I could barely even paddle for a wave and totally kooked out. Next time though...**
Thursday, September 2, 2010
i want to ride my bicycle
after having to postpone my balinese adventure i have been anxiously anticipating my hawaiian trip on my way back to the great white north for xmas.
of course i am looking forward to having a month of focusing on nothing but where i am going to be surfing morning, noon and night. i am looking forward to acai bowls and smoothies. hawaiian beer. bbqs at plantation village. napping in the afternoons between waves. embarrassingly, im even looking forward to starbucks. but what is it i am almost the most excited about? riding a pushie with a board under my arm.
riding down the bike path on the north shore with my board slung under my arm to check all the little spots along the way is so exciting. and you are usually with a little crew of people as you go, just talking and laughing, barefoot, not a care in the world. it makes you feel really young again. like when you were 10 on your summer holidays biking to collect all your friends for the day.
of course i am looking forward to having a month of focusing on nothing but where i am going to be surfing morning, noon and night. i am looking forward to acai bowls and smoothies. hawaiian beer. bbqs at plantation village. napping in the afternoons between waves. embarrassingly, im even looking forward to starbucks. but what is it i am almost the most excited about? riding a pushie with a board under my arm.
riding down the bike path on the north shore with my board slung under my arm to check all the little spots along the way is so exciting. and you are usually with a little crew of people as you go, just talking and laughing, barefoot, not a care in the world. it makes you feel really young again. like when you were 10 on your summer holidays biking to collect all your friends for the day.
try not to look try not to look try not to, gah, i looked
you know what the weird thing is about surfing at a nude beach, other than the obvious fact that there are naked people laying on the beaches around you (predominantly older naked men i might add)? its when you are in the carpark getting your board out and you run into someone on his way down to the beach to get his naked tan on.
my social code dictates that i exchange pleasantries with anyone in the carpark beside me. lovely day. beautiful water. even a simple hello. so of course, all i can think while i am smiling at the man who has just gotten out of the car beside me with his towel and sunscreen is, im going to see you naked.
and then while you are in the water, you try not to look at the beach. but its hard to miss naked people pacing up and down the very small beach in front of you. you can look at the sky. look behind you at the water. try and strike up conversation with anyone else out surfing. but inevitably your focus will be drawn towards the people onshore in all their naked glory.
or worse, when you are loading up your car after your surf and one of set naked people make their way up from the beach. of course you smile awkwardly and try not to think about the fact that you've seen them naked...but trust me, its nearly impossible.
and, you always look friends. you always look.
my social code dictates that i exchange pleasantries with anyone in the carpark beside me. lovely day. beautiful water. even a simple hello. so of course, all i can think while i am smiling at the man who has just gotten out of the car beside me with his towel and sunscreen is, im going to see you naked.
and then while you are in the water, you try not to look at the beach. but its hard to miss naked people pacing up and down the very small beach in front of you. you can look at the sky. look behind you at the water. try and strike up conversation with anyone else out surfing. but inevitably your focus will be drawn towards the people onshore in all their naked glory.
or worse, when you are loading up your car after your surf and one of set naked people make their way up from the beach. of course you smile awkwardly and try not to think about the fact that you've seen them naked...but trust me, its nearly impossible.
and, you always look friends. you always look.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
I am currently in possession of 6.05 CAD Dollars.
How did I come to have such a vast quantity of Canadian wealth in my clutches? Funny story, I picked the $5 bill out of the garbage at work...
I know it sounds gross, but I walked behind the bar to grab some water and it was just sitting on the top of the bin. Can you believe someone would throw away 5 Canadian dollars?!? I know, crazy. That's almost $5.40 AUD. And, it will purchase my first Tim Horton's medium coffee and toasted everything bagel with herb and garlic cream cheese upon arrival in the homeland in December.
So whose crazy now? The girl who picked Canadian money out of the garbage or the person who threw it away?
I thought so.
How did I come to have such a vast quantity of Canadian wealth in my clutches? Funny story, I picked the $5 bill out of the garbage at work...
I know it sounds gross, but I walked behind the bar to grab some water and it was just sitting on the top of the bin. Can you believe someone would throw away 5 Canadian dollars?!? I know, crazy. That's almost $5.40 AUD. And, it will purchase my first Tim Horton's medium coffee and toasted everything bagel with herb and garlic cream cheese upon arrival in the homeland in December.
So whose crazy now? The girl who picked Canadian money out of the garbage or the person who threw it away?
I thought so.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
creepy
i always find it slightly disconcerting to come across random shoes strewn on a path.
these flipflops were sitting in the middle of the path, facing towards the shrubbery, for 5 days. then vanished.
weirded me out everytime i went by them. i was always trying to think of what the person who owned them might have been doing that led to their removal.
hmmmm.
Friday, August 13, 2010
word of the day
so here i sit at the front desk at aquarius, hard at work perusing through the friday updates on the Surfing World blog, when i should come across a review of Canadian magazine Adbusters.
adbusters was always a favourite of my fellow higher educationees during media discussions, and if im honest a constant go-to of my own when having trouble finding something deep and insightful to write an essay about.
sean doherty, who wrote the review, calls the mag; "a little hostile and a lot nihilistic..."
nihilistic, fantastic word. and one i absolutely had to look up because i was pretty fuzzy on what it actually meant. this word led to the discovery of another word: anomie, a sociological term meaning "personal feeling of a lack of norms; normlessness. It describes the breakdown of social norms and values."
i feel smarter just for having discovered these two words, though at present time have no need to use either of them.
adbusters was always a favourite of my fellow higher educationees during media discussions, and if im honest a constant go-to of my own when having trouble finding something deep and insightful to write an essay about.
sean doherty, who wrote the review, calls the mag; "a little hostile and a lot nihilistic..."
nihilistic, fantastic word. and one i absolutely had to look up because i was pretty fuzzy on what it actually meant. this word led to the discovery of another word: anomie, a sociological term meaning "personal feeling of a lack of norms; normlessness. It describes the breakdown of social norms and values."
i feel smarter just for having discovered these two words, though at present time have no need to use either of them.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
don't blink
SURF - The Pass - Byron Bay Australia - Quadrocopter HD from rc-video.org on Vimeo.
don't blink, or you will miss me...but if you look really closely you will see me sitting on my bright pink longboard while people catch waves all around me!
this video was taken from a flying helicopter with built-in camera that's been making appearances around byron lately.
it was a GORGEOUS sunday afternoon. spent 4 hours in the water longboarding that day. so fun. so stoked there is video evidence of it.
ps- how sick is that song? its a remix of the song "artsy" by the grouch performed by edIT
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
one step closer to being sponsored
laurie was bored this morning. laurie felt adventurous this morning. laurie booked a 12 day trip to Bali this morning.
laurie is excited this morning.
laurie is excited this morning.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
somethingsomethingsomething
http://">
this song is featured in the new Reef surf flick "Cancer to Capricorn: The Path of the Modern Gypsy"
i have not been able to get it out of my head.
while trying to find it i even came up with what i thought were the lyrics to one verse. positive i had the lyrics right i spent about 2 hours Googleing them to no avail. i kept entering, "I count sheep cause I just cant sleep cause im still im still in love with you." of course these lyrics appear nowhere in the song.
anywho, i found the song. its rad.
enjoy!
this song is featured in the new Reef surf flick "Cancer to Capricorn: The Path of the Modern Gypsy"
i have not been able to get it out of my head.
while trying to find it i even came up with what i thought were the lyrics to one verse. positive i had the lyrics right i spent about 2 hours Googleing them to no avail. i kept entering, "I count sheep cause I just cant sleep cause im still im still in love with you." of course these lyrics appear nowhere in the song.
anywho, i found the song. its rad.
enjoy!
Friday, July 16, 2010
the search for uncrowded waves...
take school holidays, add some of the best waves we've seen all season, throw in a sprinkling of sunshine and add a dash of offshore winds and you get crowded, crowded surf.
with this in mind i awoke at dawn yesterday morning with my friend shannon to embark on a search for fun waves. waves unspoilt by screaming grommets and middle-aged men on a mission to score some rare mid-week vacation waves.
and find them we did...
shannon leading the way down a tree-lined staircase. i know this is lame, but i love walking down winding paths for a surf. it makes me feel like im on some kind of mystical voyage...
haza! waves!
the sun slowly rises on our secluded beach! so beautiful. i am so lucky to live here.
perfect day! wish you were here!
with this in mind i awoke at dawn yesterday morning with my friend shannon to embark on a search for fun waves. waves unspoilt by screaming grommets and middle-aged men on a mission to score some rare mid-week vacation waves.
and find them we did...
shannon leading the way down a tree-lined staircase. i know this is lame, but i love walking down winding paths for a surf. it makes me feel like im on some kind of mystical voyage...
haza! waves!
the sun slowly rises on our secluded beach! so beautiful. i am so lucky to live here.
perfect day! wish you were here!
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
it's just you, the waves, the sunshine, and 150 of your new best friends
we have had an outstanding week of surf up here in lovely byron bay. of course though combine sunny days in the winter, with solid waves, and school holidays and you have crowds like you have never seen before at your favourite surf spots.
alas, it has still been worth going out just to see some of the unbelievable things some people can do in the water...and just to practice my skills at not only wave dodging, but also people dodging.
the water has been sparkly and warm, the waves have been pretty consistent and the vibe in the water has been friendly for the most part...
off in search of more waves! whootwhoot!!!
peace and sunshine!
Friday, July 9, 2010
this morning i pushed the boundaries of accepted and conventional breakfast food.
pasta for breakfast! roasted veggie pesto pasta.
crazy you say? maybe i am. it wasn't even leftovers. i made the whole thing this morning!
just another day in the life of laurie guthrie. pushing the boundaries on traditional conventions and eating dinner for breakfast.
pasta for breakfast! roasted veggie pesto pasta.
crazy you say? maybe i am. it wasn't even leftovers. i made the whole thing this morning!
just another day in the life of laurie guthrie. pushing the boundaries on traditional conventions and eating dinner for breakfast.
Thursday, July 8, 2010
if he could he would
so yesterday i'm minding my business out at broken head. chilling on my board. waiting for a wave.
all of a sudden out of the calm blue water appears a lone dolphin. right next to me. this was no ordinary dolphin. i swear he liked me. he was chilling beside me for a few minutes then disappeared. then he reappeared and jumped out of a wave i was paddling for. "cheekie," i thought to myself.
he then rocked up beside me again. and this time i swear he winked at me before rolling onto his side- to show off his fins no doubt.
i then ran into my friend steve on my way in and he swears that a dolphin was trying to intimidate him just a few minutes before. most likely my dolphin trying to mark his territory and let steve know he should watch himself.
maybe this story is true. maybe it's not. maybe dolphins can wink, maybe they can't. maybe a dolphin tried to strike fear in steve's heart or maybe he's just a really, REALLY British guy who has never seen a dolphin in the surf before.
all of a sudden out of the calm blue water appears a lone dolphin. right next to me. this was no ordinary dolphin. i swear he liked me. he was chilling beside me for a few minutes then disappeared. then he reappeared and jumped out of a wave i was paddling for. "cheekie," i thought to myself.
he then rocked up beside me again. and this time i swear he winked at me before rolling onto his side- to show off his fins no doubt.
i then ran into my friend steve on my way in and he swears that a dolphin was trying to intimidate him just a few minutes before. most likely my dolphin trying to mark his territory and let steve know he should watch himself.
maybe this story is true. maybe it's not. maybe dolphins can wink, maybe they can't. maybe a dolphin tried to strike fear in steve's heart or maybe he's just a really, REALLY British guy who has never seen a dolphin in the surf before.
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
laurie likes offshore winds
i broke a personal vow i made to myself to never surf lennox point again today.
after a surf out there over the easter weekend that resulted in my leg looking like it had been run across a cheese grater, i swore i would never surf at that spot again.
today, after a nice relaxing surf at a point break and a beach break i got a call from a friend that said lennox was small and perfect for me...sounded too good to pass up. or at the very least check out.
the two guys i went with of course immediately jumped out leaving me behind on the rocks, chewing my fingernails and shivering from the cold and my nerves. i walked precariously over the rocks. heard markus call out to me to get out. saw someone jump effortlessly into the water....saw a 10 year old grommet effortlessly jump out...and proceeded to walk back to the safety of the dry rocks and sit my butt down.
i made a joke to an older guy who was sitting and watching that it wasn't my day, to try and hide my shame at having backed down. anywho, we got to talking and eventually i felt a lot more relaxed. he then asked if i wanted to go out. i said i did. he went and grabbed his board and walked me out onto the edge and together we jumped into the surf.
i made it! not a scratch on the body! not a scratch on the board! not a rock hit!
of course once the initial elation at having successfully manouvered into the surf wore off, i realized it was way too big for me to actually do anything. there were a handful of pros out there so it was fun to watch regardless.
i then paddled in and got myself back over the rocks without a scratch. not one wave caught, but the smile on my face will last all day. i love when you do something you were absolutely terrified of. and i was terrified of getting into this place. plus i made a new friend out of jim. the friendliest guy at lennox! i hope to see him again because when we got out i felt like giving him a hug!
smiles all around!!!!
after a surf out there over the easter weekend that resulted in my leg looking like it had been run across a cheese grater, i swore i would never surf at that spot again.
today, after a nice relaxing surf at a point break and a beach break i got a call from a friend that said lennox was small and perfect for me...sounded too good to pass up. or at the very least check out.
the two guys i went with of course immediately jumped out leaving me behind on the rocks, chewing my fingernails and shivering from the cold and my nerves. i walked precariously over the rocks. heard markus call out to me to get out. saw someone jump effortlessly into the water....saw a 10 year old grommet effortlessly jump out...and proceeded to walk back to the safety of the dry rocks and sit my butt down.
i made a joke to an older guy who was sitting and watching that it wasn't my day, to try and hide my shame at having backed down. anywho, we got to talking and eventually i felt a lot more relaxed. he then asked if i wanted to go out. i said i did. he went and grabbed his board and walked me out onto the edge and together we jumped into the surf.
i made it! not a scratch on the body! not a scratch on the board! not a rock hit!
of course once the initial elation at having successfully manouvered into the surf wore off, i realized it was way too big for me to actually do anything. there were a handful of pros out there so it was fun to watch regardless.
i then paddled in and got myself back over the rocks without a scratch. not one wave caught, but the smile on my face will last all day. i love when you do something you were absolutely terrified of. and i was terrified of getting into this place. plus i made a new friend out of jim. the friendliest guy at lennox! i hope to see him again because when we got out i felt like giving him a hug!
smiles all around!!!!
Friday, July 2, 2010
now that's how you induce a Canadian food coma
Ahhh July 1st. A time to celebrate Canada's independence as a proud, beautiful nation. A time for family and friends. For fireworks and bonfires. Boat trips and BBQs. Canadian beer and whisky. General debauchery of all sorts!
What is a Canadian living overseas to do during such a monumentos occasion? Well if you happen to work at a bar....you make them throw a party. Not just any old party. You get them to serve chicken wings and poutine. And Canadian Club. And have maple syrup chugging contests. And listen to all the great Canadian artists...Barenaked Ladies, The Tragically Hip, Bryan Adams...ok, maybe not the playlist part.
Last night we had a badass celebration of all things Canadian at Aquarius. There were ghetto Canadian flags, made by yours truly. Delicious poutine. A free keg for Canadians. And did I mention poutine? Most Aussies had never heard of or tried this French-Canadian delicacy so I took it as my duty to spread this culinary dish across the globe. And folks, it was a hit!
The best way to feel better after too much poutine? A good old fashioned dance party! Featuring me and Yogi's sweet new whale-inspired dance moves.
Great night....though it made me miss home!
What is a Canadian living overseas to do during such a monumentos occasion? Well if you happen to work at a bar....you make them throw a party. Not just any old party. You get them to serve chicken wings and poutine. And Canadian Club. And have maple syrup chugging contests. And listen to all the great Canadian artists...Barenaked Ladies, The Tragically Hip, Bryan Adams...ok, maybe not the playlist part.
Last night we had a badass celebration of all things Canadian at Aquarius. There were ghetto Canadian flags, made by yours truly. Delicious poutine. A free keg for Canadians. And did I mention poutine? Most Aussies had never heard of or tried this French-Canadian delicacy so I took it as my duty to spread this culinary dish across the globe. And folks, it was a hit!
The best way to feel better after too much poutine? A good old fashioned dance party! Featuring me and Yogi's sweet new whale-inspired dance moves.
Great night....though it made me miss home!
dorsel fin high-five
Whale season is upon us here in lovely Byron Bay. If you don't see whales while out for a surf, then you can definitely see them from the lighthouse or while just on the beach.
The awesome guys at the Byron Bay Dive Center took me, Kat, Sunny and Yogi out on a whale watching tour yesterday and it was amazing. It was a gorgeous, warm, clear, sunny day. We first took the boat out to Julian Rocks, a local dive spot in Byron and saw heaps of turtles and dolphins...but not whales.
After chilling on the ocean for a bit we spotted one out in the distance and drove up as close as we could get to it. We were literally only 100m away from a big, beautiful hump back whale. The whale was breaching the surface doing 180s, slapping the surface with its tail and its fins....basically showing off for us.
It was unreal to see something so beautiful up-close.
Afterwards I went for a surf and had a whale breach only 50m from where I was sitting. I tried to go underwater and make whale sounds to attract it, but strangely she did not come over to say Hi or offer me a ride. Weird.
***disclaimer- the whale shown in the above picture is not either of the actual whales I encountered***
**note- if you offer me and Yogi a snack, or a bourbon, or just ask nicely, we will show you our sweet as whale impression**
Monday, June 28, 2010
dance and sing then dance some more
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so obsessed with this band right now. their album treats blows my mind. and makes me dance all over town. bob while riding my bike. sing while running down the beach. gets stuck in my head while im surfing.
you get the point. i like it.
so obsessed with this band right now. their album treats blows my mind. and makes me dance all over town. bob while riding my bike. sing while running down the beach. gets stuck in my head while im surfing.
you get the point. i like it.
Sunday, June 27, 2010
read me!
Read "Crazy for the Storm" by Norman Ollestad. Now. Go on. GO!
I could not put own this personal memoir of a young boy who is the sole survivor of a plane crash that killed his father and his father's girlfriend. The book describes his younger years with his father who would push himself and his son to the limits in the surf and on the slopes where they lived in a sort of counterculture paradise.
The story is thoughtful and evocative, a perfect showcase of Ollestad's elegant and moving writing abilities.
It is available on Amazon.com and is a definite must-read.
Go on now.
I could not put own this personal memoir of a young boy who is the sole survivor of a plane crash that killed his father and his father's girlfriend. The book describes his younger years with his father who would push himself and his son to the limits in the surf and on the slopes where they lived in a sort of counterculture paradise.
The story is thoughtful and evocative, a perfect showcase of Ollestad's elegant and moving writing abilities.
It is available on Amazon.com and is a definite must-read.
Go on now.
a movie this good deserves a sequel
Yes folks, the rumours are true! What we have all been hoping for since the release of this classic surf film...they are currently in production for a sequel to Blue Crush. Siiiiiiiiiick!
Being filmed in South Africa and featuring some Aussie acting talent, as well as some of the ladies currently ripping on the women's ASP World Tour, this sequel promises to be a surfing and acting master piece.
The original Blue Crush may have played an integral role in inspiring not only my move to Australia, but also my trip to Hawaii. I may have watched it over 100 times. I may be able to quote the movie. I may compare my life to various themes in the movie. I may compare my friends to various characters in the movie. I may have cried during the end scene where she makes the drop at Pipeline and scores herself a magazine cover. I may have done these things. Maybe.
If is anywhere near as moving, inspired and true-to-life as the first one, then this straight to DVD movie is going straight into my movie collection.
Definitely keep an eye out in your local video shop for this cultural delight!
Being filmed in South Africa and featuring some Aussie acting talent, as well as some of the ladies currently ripping on the women's ASP World Tour, this sequel promises to be a surfing and acting master piece.
The original Blue Crush may have played an integral role in inspiring not only my move to Australia, but also my trip to Hawaii. I may have watched it over 100 times. I may be able to quote the movie. I may compare my life to various themes in the movie. I may compare my friends to various characters in the movie. I may have cried during the end scene where she makes the drop at Pipeline and scores herself a magazine cover. I may have done these things. Maybe.
If is anywhere near as moving, inspired and true-to-life as the first one, then this straight to DVD movie is going straight into my movie collection.
Definitely keep an eye out in your local video shop for this cultural delight!
Friday, June 25, 2010
introducing: The Eddie
A board this gorgeous needs a "The" in front of its name...trust me.
Named after both my amazingly supportive father who encouraged me to buy this beaut, and the Hawaiian big wave surf contest.
For now I can only catch small waves on him, but in the near future I see myself cross-stepping and nose-riding all over town! What a silhouette we will paint together.
He makes me smile every time I see him. Sigh. The Eddie.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
brings me back
this video was taken while I was visiting my friend Jess in Japan.
all week we had been talking about going to get ice cream sundaes from this place where they sing for you when you tip them. we seriously hyped it up for an entire week before going, trying to decide what kind of ice cream we would each get. what toppings. would we eat dinner first. etcetcetc.
anywho, jess, immediately upon receiving her sundae,tipped and they started singing and....well you can see the result in the video.
hahhaha. oh JD, you are such a geek. but i love you for it.
bright shiny morning
I have just finished reading the book "Bright Shiny Morning" by James Frey (yes, the guy who botched up when he lied to Oprah about his book A Million Little Pieces- honestly, who lies to Oprah?).
I loved the book. It contained a variety of stories about various characters all living in the city of LA. It switched back and forth between the characters, telling each of their stories in short chapters. It was very well written and kept me interested throughout.
There is one excerpt I really liked where Frey describes people who come to LA in search of surf. He writes:
"All of them find peace and joy alone on the water a serenity contentment to which they devote their lives...It's a dream their life no stress no expectations no ambitions just love something they truly and dearly love that will never leave them, never forsake them. It's sand and salt, water and waves, love."
Though I don't agree with the no stress no expectations no ambitions part, I do like the way he describes the love of surfing and the devotion to it.
Good pic if you're looking for a new read.
I loved the book. It contained a variety of stories about various characters all living in the city of LA. It switched back and forth between the characters, telling each of their stories in short chapters. It was very well written and kept me interested throughout.
There is one excerpt I really liked where Frey describes people who come to LA in search of surf. He writes:
"All of them find peace and joy alone on the water a serenity contentment to which they devote their lives...It's a dream their life no stress no expectations no ambitions just love something they truly and dearly love that will never leave them, never forsake them. It's sand and salt, water and waves, love."
Though I don't agree with the no stress no expectations no ambitions part, I do like the way he describes the love of surfing and the devotion to it.
Good pic if you're looking for a new read.
a million reasons
There are a million reasons why I love my family. And the fact that they will still pose with me for pictures making a giant Guthrie sandwich is only one.
I have been missing home like crazy lately. My sister Shelby and her boyfriend Dan have just bought a new house with my dad- Eddie- and my brother Matt has moved into the attached apartment. I can just imagine how cozy their new house is and how great it is for all of them to be living together. While most families grow apart as they get older, it seems as though mine only grows closer together. Good on us Guthrie's.
I am so blessed to be able to look to my family not only for guidance and support but also for a good laugh. I don't know many people who can call their Dad their best friend and who look up to their younger sister and who think their Mom is the most creative and motivated person they have ever met. And Matty, we all know I'll probably be living in your basement after you make your first million.
I am already eagerly anticipating my next trip home. Where you will find me holed up on my dad's couch, surrounded by the snacks he has stocked up just for me, relaxing with my dog on my lap and watching a movie with my entire family. Perfection.
You guys rock. I miss you everyday. I would not be able to have the life I do without all of you. Thanks.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
new music lalala
i cannot stop listening to an american band called surfer blood.
put on their debut single "swim." then listen to it again. and again. and one more time for luck. and then one more time for fun.
their debut album "astrocoast" is a delightful combination of indie rock meets surfer hip. it's a mix of songs that make you want to sing and dance and, of course, go surfing. some of my favourite things.
enjoy!
http://www.myspace.com/surferblood
put on their debut single "swim." then listen to it again. and again. and one more time for luck. and then one more time for fun.
their debut album "astrocoast" is a delightful combination of indie rock meets surfer hip. it's a mix of songs that make you want to sing and dance and, of course, go surfing. some of my favourite things.
enjoy!
http://www.myspace.com/surferblood
last night, he said
so last night i was up until 2am watching australia take on ghana in the world cup. while watching the game/ trying not to fall asleep in the aquarius bar i started talking to a guy about any cool words (or big words or fancy words) we try and use on a regular basis to impress people.
i didn't have one.
how sad.
so i have now been dilligently google-ing "word of the day" to try and uncover a word that will become my conversational gemstone.
words that have come up include:
amok\uh-MUHK\ , adjective;
1.In or into a jumbled or confused state.2.In or into an uncontrolled state or a state of extreme activity.3.In a frenzy to do violence or kill.
auspicious • \aw-SPISH-us\ • adjective
*1 : promising success : favorable
2 : fortunate, prosperous
Acerbic [a·cer·bic] adj. Sharp or biting, as in character or expression: The director occasionally allowed an acerbic tone to an otherwise subtle dialogue.
weird that on three different sites all of the words of the day started with an S. no?
anywho, none of these is the weapon of a word that i am searching for. a word that i can throw out in casual conversation and blow people's minds. nonetheless the search continues on.
i didn't have one.
how sad.
so i have now been dilligently google-ing "word of the day" to try and uncover a word that will become my conversational gemstone.
words that have come up include:
amok\uh-MUHK\ , adjective;
1.In or into a jumbled or confused state.2.In or into an uncontrolled state or a state of extreme activity.3.In a frenzy to do violence or kill.
auspicious • \aw-SPISH-us\ • adjective
*1 : promising success : favorable
2 : fortunate, prosperous
Acerbic [a·cer·bic] adj. Sharp or biting, as in character or expression: The director occasionally allowed an acerbic tone to an otherwise subtle dialogue.
weird that on three different sites all of the words of the day started with an S. no?
anywho, none of these is the weapon of a word that i am searching for. a word that i can throw out in casual conversation and blow people's minds. nonetheless the search continues on.
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Friday, May 28, 2010
lucky me
so i was just talking with a friend via text message. he asked me what id been up to all day.
i replied: "nothing much. went for a surf. ran on the beach. pretty standard."
and he said: "it's so cool how you make going surfing sound average..."
i guess i sometimes forget how amazing it is that i am able to wake up almost every day and go surfing. this is something i should never ever forget.
i replied: "nothing much. went for a surf. ran on the beach. pretty standard."
and he said: "it's so cool how you make going surfing sound average..."
i guess i sometimes forget how amazing it is that i am able to wake up almost every day and go surfing. this is something i should never ever forget.
lets go away for a while, you and I, to a strange and distant place
I love days that remind me how lucky I am.
This Wednesday me and Yogi and a couple of guys from work loaded up Yog's wagon with snacks and surfboards and drove down to Iluka to spend the day surfing and basking in the joy of not having to work!
We started the day out at the Iluka wall where we met up with my housemates Kat and Sunny for a morning surf. Sunny was the only one who was actually able to pull into the thick, fast barrels. Though I did give it a shot a couple of times, at least until I gave myself a black eye (pictured below) which led to me spending my remaining time out on the water floating around like a buoy with a dear-caught-in-headlights look.
After our surf we grabbed some fresh seafood at a local marina. I am not the biggest fan of fish and chips but according to everyone else in my group they were top-notch.
Because only myself and Markus paddled out at the first spot, we decided to try another break that was a little bit more on the fun side. We settled on Frasers Reef where there was a nice little beach break and only a couple of other people out. This spot was decidedly more surfable and we were all able to put ourselves into some super-fun waves.
We finished the day off with delicious tacos and a couple of s shared under the stars with a bonfire at my new house beside the ocean.
All in all a top-notch day! And a defnite reminder of how lucky I am to have the friends I do and live where I am.
black eyes are bad@$#
I do not want to admit how I actually got this black eye, suffice to say that it is a result of a surfing incident. Lets just say I was doing something super cool.
Ouch.
Though I must admit it does make me look kind of tough. No?
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
knitknitknit
knitknitknit. all day long. knitknitknit while i sing this song.
gonna knit a scarf. gonna make it long.
gonna knitknitknit while i sing this song.
no waves to be found anywhere today. took the camera out for a minor but was feeling rather uninspired due to the rain and winds.
me and kat went for a tour around the arts and industrial and found some amazing shops. a few places worth mention:
Spell- gorgeous jewelery handmade right out in the back of the shop. the necklaces they make are unreal. so original.
Goddess of Babylon- some of the best leather bags and boots to be found. they make the kind of pieces you can wear with jeans and a plain white tee and feel dressed up.
NCS- home of my all-time favourite fish and long boards. they produce Takayama and Bear surfboards. Evan, the guy who works the store front, is the most patient man on the planet. i make a weekly visit to the store to stare at the boards and bring friends around to see the place.i am also secretly hoping they will eventually offer me a job. i also just love the smell of a new board. mmmmm...epoxy....
Byron Bay Gourmet Pies- you can go directly to their factory and get fresh out of the oven pies for only $3! plus all the stores around them smell like pie. mmmmmm...pie...
i always find it refreshing to be around others who are creative. especially when i am feeling uninspired myself. kat and i dropped in on our amazingly talented friend Yogesha (aka Yoshimitsu aka Mixmaster Yogs aka Woogie aka Bear) who works behind the spell shop as a seamstress. homegirl has talent coming out the yingyang. i think ill just start going out to her studio and hanging out to soak up the positive vibes and unique energy.
anywho...im feeling newly inspired and invigorated to create something new. with the help of my new roommate Kat.
peace and rainbows!
gonna knit a scarf. gonna make it long.
gonna knitknitknit while i sing this song.
no waves to be found anywhere today. took the camera out for a minor but was feeling rather uninspired due to the rain and winds.
me and kat went for a tour around the arts and industrial and found some amazing shops. a few places worth mention:
Spell- gorgeous jewelery handmade right out in the back of the shop. the necklaces they make are unreal. so original.
Goddess of Babylon- some of the best leather bags and boots to be found. they make the kind of pieces you can wear with jeans and a plain white tee and feel dressed up.
NCS- home of my all-time favourite fish and long boards. they produce Takayama and Bear surfboards. Evan, the guy who works the store front, is the most patient man on the planet. i make a weekly visit to the store to stare at the boards and bring friends around to see the place.i am also secretly hoping they will eventually offer me a job. i also just love the smell of a new board. mmmmm...epoxy....
Byron Bay Gourmet Pies- you can go directly to their factory and get fresh out of the oven pies for only $3! plus all the stores around them smell like pie. mmmmmm...pie...
i always find it refreshing to be around others who are creative. especially when i am feeling uninspired myself. kat and i dropped in on our amazingly talented friend Yogesha (aka Yoshimitsu aka Mixmaster Yogs aka Woogie aka Bear) who works behind the spell shop as a seamstress. homegirl has talent coming out the yingyang. i think ill just start going out to her studio and hanging out to soak up the positive vibes and unique energy.
anywho...im feeling newly inspired and invigorated to create something new. with the help of my new roommate Kat.
peace and rainbows!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
eating is not a sport
I seriously need to remind myself of this fact: eating is not a sport.
Last night I had some of my amazing, hilarious, gorgeous friends over to my house for my birthday. Because I am 26 going on 12, I had a make-your-own-pizza party. And make pizza we did. Eight pizzas to be exact. BBQ chicken, supreme, greek, ginger-chicken with pineapple, pumpkin and rocket with feta...mmmm...
I had strategically located my seat directly beside the table with all of the food on it. My prime seating allowed me to sample each new pizza as it came out of the oven, plus eat all of the various snacks dispersed across the table.
As it would also turn out, I have found a kindred soul in Miss Katherine Stobs-Stobart. Kat can eat, and I say this with the utmost respect, even more than I can. She may even think about food more than I do.
As a result of Kat's encouragement, I ate what may equate to an entire family-sized pizza. As did Kat.
It is times like these I must remind myself again that eating is not a sport. I am now spending my first official day as a 26 year-old nursing a massive food hangover.
***though to be honest I am just waiting for my stomach to settle so I can start eating some of the leftovers I brought with me to work***
Last night I had some of my amazing, hilarious, gorgeous friends over to my house for my birthday. Because I am 26 going on 12, I had a make-your-own-pizza party. And make pizza we did. Eight pizzas to be exact. BBQ chicken, supreme, greek, ginger-chicken with pineapple, pumpkin and rocket with feta...mmmm...
I had strategically located my seat directly beside the table with all of the food on it. My prime seating allowed me to sample each new pizza as it came out of the oven, plus eat all of the various snacks dispersed across the table.
As it would also turn out, I have found a kindred soul in Miss Katherine Stobs-Stobart. Kat can eat, and I say this with the utmost respect, even more than I can. She may even think about food more than I do.
As a result of Kat's encouragement, I ate what may equate to an entire family-sized pizza. As did Kat.
It is times like these I must remind myself again that eating is not a sport. I am now spending my first official day as a 26 year-old nursing a massive food hangover.
***though to be honest I am just waiting for my stomach to settle so I can start eating some of the leftovers I brought with me to work***
Friday, May 7, 2010
ahem
It is a longstanding fact known throughout my circle of family and friends that no one is to touch any of my magazines until I have first been through them from cover to cover.
This is especially true when I have new Surfing World and Monster Children. I seriously wait for each new issue to be released from the minute I am finished the current one. Both mags are not only chalked-full of amazing stories, but they also contain beautiful pictures, a unique approach to layout and design, pieces from a variety of contributors, and information about everything from music and art to travel to the best creams for rashburns.
I have been eagerly anticipating the arrival of my new Surfing World since they released the topic on their blog- The Design Issue. Totally worth the wait.
I am currently obsessed with board design. I swear I remember people in the water by what kind of board they are on...and I notice someones' surfboard before I notice anything else about them. Honestly though, a surfers' quiver does say a lot about them.
The issue delves into issues of environmental board creation, the evolution of design, the origin of the twin-fin, and even has some non-shapers tackle the art of creating their own board. I loved everything about the issue- it was only missing a few things in my opinion: some mention of more up-and-coming shapers and some exploration into what both some well-known pro and free surfers are riding. I would love to know who the next generation of shapers are and what they are currently doing with design. I also would have loved to have a glimpse into the quiver of some shapers and surfers. Hear what they love to ride in certain conditions and what they are experimenting with at the moment. I also would have mentioned Al Emery.
As all of my readers know I H-E-A-R-T my new Emery board. I have never surfed a board that I actually felt a noticeable difference in my surfing before I started surfing my new Emery shortboard. Not only is the board capable of catching even the smallest and sloppiest of waves, it also still allows me to make quick turns because of the narrowness of the fishtail design. The rails are softer and a little thicker than my last board, which I find to be much more forgiving on my turns, while still allowing me a lot of maneuverability. It paddles amazingly and looks great too. No jokes, it's a magnet. I am constantly having people come up to ask me about how it goes. And I swear I am becoming a better surfer since I started riding it. Emery is THE designer to watch in my opinion.
Not only has one of his riders, Adam Melling, been added to the WCT this year, but another one of his surfers, Stuart Kennedy, has been tearing it up on the WQS. Both Lennox Head locals have been tearing it up in recent competitions and are definitely worth keeping your eye on. I met Al the other day when I took my friend Marcus out to his shop to pick up a board. I think I freaked him out when I literally gushed to him about how much I like his boards and how his riders are amazing and how my surfing has changed since riding it. He was slowly backing away from me into the safety of his shaping den before I could beg him for a job or to watch him shape a board or add me to his team...anywho...
check out his website:
http://www.emerysurfboards.com/
This is especially true when I have new Surfing World and Monster Children. I seriously wait for each new issue to be released from the minute I am finished the current one. Both mags are not only chalked-full of amazing stories, but they also contain beautiful pictures, a unique approach to layout and design, pieces from a variety of contributors, and information about everything from music and art to travel to the best creams for rashburns.
I have been eagerly anticipating the arrival of my new Surfing World since they released the topic on their blog- The Design Issue. Totally worth the wait.
I am currently obsessed with board design. I swear I remember people in the water by what kind of board they are on...and I notice someones' surfboard before I notice anything else about them. Honestly though, a surfers' quiver does say a lot about them.
The issue delves into issues of environmental board creation, the evolution of design, the origin of the twin-fin, and even has some non-shapers tackle the art of creating their own board. I loved everything about the issue- it was only missing a few things in my opinion: some mention of more up-and-coming shapers and some exploration into what both some well-known pro and free surfers are riding. I would love to know who the next generation of shapers are and what they are currently doing with design. I also would have loved to have a glimpse into the quiver of some shapers and surfers. Hear what they love to ride in certain conditions and what they are experimenting with at the moment. I also would have mentioned Al Emery.
As all of my readers know I H-E-A-R-T my new Emery board. I have never surfed a board that I actually felt a noticeable difference in my surfing before I started surfing my new Emery shortboard. Not only is the board capable of catching even the smallest and sloppiest of waves, it also still allows me to make quick turns because of the narrowness of the fishtail design. The rails are softer and a little thicker than my last board, which I find to be much more forgiving on my turns, while still allowing me a lot of maneuverability. It paddles amazingly and looks great too. No jokes, it's a magnet. I am constantly having people come up to ask me about how it goes. And I swear I am becoming a better surfer since I started riding it. Emery is THE designer to watch in my opinion.
Not only has one of his riders, Adam Melling, been added to the WCT this year, but another one of his surfers, Stuart Kennedy, has been tearing it up on the WQS. Both Lennox Head locals have been tearing it up in recent competitions and are definitely worth keeping your eye on. I met Al the other day when I took my friend Marcus out to his shop to pick up a board. I think I freaked him out when I literally gushed to him about how much I like his boards and how his riders are amazing and how my surfing has changed since riding it. He was slowly backing away from me into the safety of his shaping den before I could beg him for a job or to watch him shape a board or add me to his team...anywho...
check out his website:
http://www.emerysurfboards.com/
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
some might say
you can spend all day being mad at a certain friend who is trying to move in on your territory, spreading lies and making vicious allegations about you.
but then she goes and puts on a magical show on the karaoke machine and you can no longer harbour those feelings of anger.
some might say miss yogesha has the voice of our generation. and the stage presence of the next michael buble. i would be inclined to agree with this.
yogi has totally redeemed herself in my eyes on the karaoke machine. well played mix. well played.
but then she goes and puts on a magical show on the karaoke machine and you can no longer harbour those feelings of anger.
some might say miss yogesha has the voice of our generation. and the stage presence of the next michael buble. i would be inclined to agree with this.
yogi has totally redeemed herself in my eyes on the karaoke machine. well played mix. well played.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
in a strange twist of fate
i think i jinxed myself.
i went to start my car this morning and she wouldnt start.
yar. looks like simba needs a new battery. but who has money for new headlights and batteries when i have a surfboard to buy?
being responsible (to a small degree) sucks.
i went to start my car this morning and she wouldnt start.
yar. looks like simba needs a new battery. but who has money for new headlights and batteries when i have a surfboard to buy?
being responsible (to a small degree) sucks.
Friday, April 30, 2010
it's amazing the things I can justify
Some of you may have met Simba. Maybe you have been lucky enough to have the privilege of taking a ride and have therefore felt her power and grace. Or, to be more accurate, felt the fear she instills in you when going up a hill. Or when the handle to the windows just falls off when you're turning it. Or when the trunk just shuts on you when your grabbing your board from the hatch. Or when the hood jiggles because the lock doesn't work properly anymore. Or when you have to unhook the battery to turn off the lights. Or when the interior light flickers on and off like you're at a disco. Or when the transmission won't let you drive in any gear but 2nd even though its an automatic car.
Yup. Simba is a real treat.
Anywho, it had crossed my mind that the best/smartest solution to her problems would be to sell her for as much as I can get and purchase a car that actually worked properly. As it would turn out, I have decided instead to buy a new surfboard. A 9 foot surfboard. It has also just occurred to me that if my car stops running I will have no way of transporting all 9 feet of board to appropriate longboard waves. Hm.
Well, so much for buying a new car. My board is now worth more than my car. Amazing what can be justified.
Looks like I'll be using a broomstick to keep the trunk open and using superglue to fix the lights and windows.....
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
and so it is
Sadly, I have just returned from dropping The Tosh off at the Gold Coast Airport *single tear*. On Monday we left for our last trip to Cooli together. Just me, Tash and Simba on the open road headed to our favourite spot to surf. And though the waves were less than epic, we had one last surf in Cooli's magical blue waters together and got to go on one last nighttime adventure.
I have known Tash since I was but a wee of 5. We grew up down the street from one another and randomly were brought together in Byron Bay after years living apart. I have experienced everything with Tash from making up dances on trampolines, to eating entire jumbo sized ice cream cakes in one sitting, to sharing a small tent, to owning a car, to travelling to Hawaii. She has put up with me giving her ridiculous nicknames like Tato and The Tosh, forcing her to sleep in bathtubs and eat large tubs of ice cream, listening to me go back and forth about every decision I have to make and with me waking her up earlier than she wants because I want to go surfing immediately.
Having her in Byron the last year was amazing. It's not often in life we are given the opportunity to reconnect with friends from our childhood and I am so grateful to have had this last 10 months with The Tosh. You will be missed Tash. I could not have asked for a better friend to learn to surf with, share a car with, travel with, bike around town with, live with and laugh with.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
phew
i FINALLY got back into the water yesterday after taking almost an entire week off.
though my back was quite back to 100%, i was dying slowly inside. it seemed more important to surf than to let my back get another day's rest.
the water was amazing. so warm and clear. though the waves were the stuff broken boards are made from.
2 of my friends broke their boards within their first couple of waves. and the tash lost a fin within ten minutes in the water.
though the sweep was nuts and i was in constant fear of snapping yet another board, i caught 2 really fun waves and got to go surfing again. YAY! Haloa survived her first surf on a hectic day. HAZA!
i feel like me again.
off to cooli tomorrow for the tash's last night in eastern australia. single tear.
though my back was quite back to 100%, i was dying slowly inside. it seemed more important to surf than to let my back get another day's rest.
the water was amazing. so warm and clear. though the waves were the stuff broken boards are made from.
2 of my friends broke their boards within their first couple of waves. and the tash lost a fin within ten minutes in the water.
though the sweep was nuts and i was in constant fear of snapping yet another board, i caught 2 really fun waves and got to go surfing again. YAY! Haloa survived her first surf on a hectic day. HAZA!
i feel like me again.
off to cooli tomorrow for the tash's last night in eastern australia. single tear.
a love like this before
they say the first time you find true love, you just know right away. and you will sacrifice anything for that love. it is a love that will last forever.
i have just recently discovered what everyone has been writing, singing and talking about...
it was a balmy saturday afternoon in byron bay. with no real surf to be found anywhere in town i decided to go for a drive out to the arts and industrial and see what was happening at the munroe shop. after spending some time talking to the guys about getting my broken board fixed and glassing over my paint job on my fish we got on to a discussion about longboarding. i mentioned i had always wanted to buy one but had been putting it off. they suggested i walk next door the the NCS shop and see if they had any seconds in stock. if only i had known what i was getting myself into.
i remember the sun was strong that day, and as i walked over to NCS it was beating down into my eyes, making me feel slightly lightheaded. the air was thick with heat and the scent of resin and epoxy floating though the air. i took a timid step inside the shop. and there she was.
9 feet and 1 inch of foam, epoxy, and glass. her bright pick colour was the first thing that caught my eye when i walked in. i went right up to her, holding my breath, afraid to even touch her lest i somehow tarnish her magnificence. the next few minutes is a haze of beautiful pink flashes in my mind with coldplay playing in the background, visions of long smooth rides at the pass playing in my head.
after weeks spent going in to visit her, testing evan's (the shaper) patience, i finally put a deposit on her this week. i have a lot of work to do to get ready to bring her home with me. i need roof racks for my car, a board bag so she does not get harmed, and i need to find a place to keep 9 feet of board in my house. this is a big comittment.
very soon i will post pictures of us together...hopefully with me noseriding all over byron bay on my brand new Donald Takayama "In the Pink" model longboard!!!!
i have just recently discovered what everyone has been writing, singing and talking about...
it was a balmy saturday afternoon in byron bay. with no real surf to be found anywhere in town i decided to go for a drive out to the arts and industrial and see what was happening at the munroe shop. after spending some time talking to the guys about getting my broken board fixed and glassing over my paint job on my fish we got on to a discussion about longboarding. i mentioned i had always wanted to buy one but had been putting it off. they suggested i walk next door the the NCS shop and see if they had any seconds in stock. if only i had known what i was getting myself into.
i remember the sun was strong that day, and as i walked over to NCS it was beating down into my eyes, making me feel slightly lightheaded. the air was thick with heat and the scent of resin and epoxy floating though the air. i took a timid step inside the shop. and there she was.
9 feet and 1 inch of foam, epoxy, and glass. her bright pick colour was the first thing that caught my eye when i walked in. i went right up to her, holding my breath, afraid to even touch her lest i somehow tarnish her magnificence. the next few minutes is a haze of beautiful pink flashes in my mind with coldplay playing in the background, visions of long smooth rides at the pass playing in my head.
after weeks spent going in to visit her, testing evan's (the shaper) patience, i finally put a deposit on her this week. i have a lot of work to do to get ready to bring her home with me. i need roof racks for my car, a board bag so she does not get harmed, and i need to find a place to keep 9 feet of board in my house. this is a big comittment.
very soon i will post pictures of us together...hopefully with me noseriding all over byron bay on my brand new Donald Takayama "In the Pink" model longboard!!!!
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