Slightly bruised and slightly broken, but unbelieveably stoked and refreshed. That is how I feel after having just spent the last week camping and surfing everywhere from Byron to Cooli to Lennox to Angourie on a strict diet of beans, cookies and bananas.
We had just received an Easter gift of solid swell and armed with only our boards, a tent and some tunes that made everyone sing we drove up and down the coast surfing like crazy and doing our best to find places to sleep.
I always love surfing with different people and at new spots. Not only is the change of scenery refreshing, but its also great to get out and feel the unique energy at a each break. Plus its always motivating to be in the water with people at various levels- both more advanced and less experienced than yourself. I got to watch someone who was just beginning catch some of his first waves, see my friends trying to pull airs and find barrels, and gain some local knowledge from some of the experienced old guys out in the water.
**apparently when surfing at Angourie every wave is a party wave if you have enough space and if you ever feel like giving Jim on the big old mal a push, he is more than happy to accept it**
A definite stand out of the trip was Gavin who had only been surfing a handful of times and managed to paddle out everywhere we went. Despite breaking his mal, he was still able to catch a few waves on a borrowed 6'4" fish and never complained or went in early once. plus I always love watching Tristan surf. He has a true gift in the water, plus it was hilarious watching him try and pull a Big Z on his short board.
I hope everyone had a super Easter holiday packed with delicious food, family and lots of laughs.
Peace and rainbows.
No comments:
Post a Comment