phew

i FINALLY got back into the water yesterday after taking almost an entire week off.

though my back was quite back to 100%, i was dying slowly inside. it seemed more important to surf than to let my back get another day's rest.

the water was amazing. so warm and clear. though the waves were the stuff broken boards are made from.

2 of my friends broke their boards within their first couple of waves. and the tash lost a fin within ten minutes in the water.

though the sweep was nuts and i was in constant fear of snapping yet another board, i caught 2 really fun waves and got to go surfing again. YAY! Haloa survived her first surf on a hectic day. HAZA!

i feel like me again.

off to cooli tomorrow for the tash's last night in eastern australia. single tear.