work kills surf skills

i have seen that slogan painted on the window of the dilapitated house located on the route i take to get to work everyday.
the first time i saw it i kind of chuckled to myself. after it stayed on their window for a few months, along with the ping pong table on the front deck, the 3-6 cars parked on the front lawn at any given time, and the constant cluster of young 20somethings always partying, i would go by and think to myself, "You get a job."

well, after having spent the last 2 weeks working 2 full-time jobs, leaving myself with only enough time to go for short runs and bike from one job to the next, i look at that window as a life lesson. when a solid few days of swell comes in, and your cell phone is barraged with texts about where so-and-so just got the wave of the month and you are busy serving someone a hot, soy, decaf, weak latte...well folks, suffice to say i am not a happy camper at the moment.

all i can do is smile and serve my customers their chatty coffees, deposit my pay checks, and chant to myself over and over again: "Hawaii. Hawaii. Hawaii."

what gets you through a day at the office?

lucky me, i get to watch the billabong pro at teahupoo while sitting at my cozy front desk at work.
though the waves didn't look as big as it had in past years, it is still one of the most hectic waves on the planet. it breaks super heavy over such shallow dry reef. ouch. just the idea of surfing there makes my body hurt.

Andy Irons snipes his first V of the season, and just in time for the newly implemented cut offs in the top 45. his victory must have been that much sweeter considering he took out his long-time rival and sometime friend Kelly Slater in the semi's. with the way AI competes once he gets a few wins under his belt, hopefully this turns out to be a big season for him. cocky as the guy is, i love cheering for a comeback.

and a few words of mention for Lennox Head's very own Adam Melling who made it through to round 4 before being taken out by Kelly Slater. Melling, who lives just 20 minutes away from me in Byron, is killing it on his rookie year on the tour. he seems to really be finding his stride and feeling really comfortable on all the of the WCT tour venues. Go Melling Go!

**Melling also rides for Emery surfboards, my favourite shaper. I got to meet Al Emery the other day out at Lennox and I could barely look him in the eyes. I was so nervous to surf his board in front of him, especially because he just cut me a massive deal on a brand new shortboard he'd lent my roommate before I took it over. I could barely even paddle for a wave and totally kooked out. Next time though...**

i want to ride my bicycle

after having to postpone my balinese adventure i have been anxiously anticipating my hawaiian trip on my way back to the great white north for xmas.

of course i am looking forward to having a month of focusing on nothing but where i am going to be surfing morning, noon and night. i am looking forward to acai bowls and smoothies. hawaiian beer. bbqs at plantation village. napping in the afternoons between waves. embarrassingly, im even looking forward to starbucks. but what is it i am almost the most excited about? riding a pushie with a board under my arm.

riding down the bike path on the north shore with my board slung under my arm to check all the little spots along the way is so exciting. and you are usually with a little crew of people as you go, just talking and laughing, barefoot, not a care in the world. it makes you feel really young again. like when you were 10 on your summer holidays biking to collect all your friends for the day.

try not to look try not to look try not to, gah, i looked

you know what the weird thing is about surfing at a nude beach, other than the obvious fact that there are naked people laying on the beaches around you (predominantly older naked men i might add)? its when you are in the carpark getting your board out and you run into someone on his way down to the beach to get his naked tan on.

my social code dictates that i exchange pleasantries with anyone in the carpark beside me. lovely day. beautiful water. even a simple hello. so of course, all i can think while i am smiling at the man who has just gotten out of the car beside me with his towel and sunscreen is, im going to see you naked.

and then while you are in the water, you try not to look at the beach. but its hard to miss naked people pacing up and down the very small beach in front of you. you can look at the sky. look behind you at the water. try and strike up conversation with anyone else out surfing. but inevitably your focus will be drawn towards the people onshore in all their naked glory.

or worse, when you are loading up your car after your surf and one of set naked people make their way up from the beach. of course you smile awkwardly and try not to think about the fact that you've seen them naked...but trust me, its nearly impossible.

and, you always look friends. you always look.