Wednesday, October 6, 2010

am i still alive out here?

still alive? well its been tough to say these days. still working my two jobs, but keeping the mental picture of myself getting into a barrel in hawaii and then eating canadian homecooking for a month straight to get me through it.

the weather has been off the chain here the last couple weeks. torrential downpour followed by short bursts of extreme heat and rays of light. not perfect, but as long as you run outside as soon as the sun shines down you are OK.

we have just had a few days with some heavy swell and offshore winds which has provided me with some much-needed surf stoke.

ive ridden every one of my boards in the last 3 days and even paddled into the biggest wave ive ridden yet. easily double-overhead, as confirmed by my roommate who was there to watch it go down...it was well worth the pounding that came immediately after it.

the black apache board i had been coveting sold, but i highly recommend checking out:



and



both are local shapers who are still making beautiful hand-crafted, high-quality surfboards. ya for surfboards.

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