so i was just talking with a friend via text message. he asked me what id been up to all day.
i replied: "nothing much. went for a surf. ran on the beach. pretty standard."
and he said: "it's so cool how you make going surfing sound average..."
i guess i sometimes forget how amazing it is that i am able to wake up almost every day and go surfing. this is something i should never ever forget.
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