Tuesday, July 6, 2010

laurie likes offshore winds

i broke a personal vow i made to myself to never surf lennox point again today.

after a surf out there over the easter weekend that resulted in my leg looking like it had been run across a cheese grater, i swore i would never surf at that spot again.

today, after a nice relaxing surf at a point break and a beach break i got a call from a friend that said lennox was small and perfect for me...sounded too good to pass up. or at the very least check out.

the two guys i went with of course immediately jumped out leaving me behind on the rocks, chewing my fingernails and shivering from the cold and my nerves. i walked precariously over the rocks. heard markus call out to me to get out. saw someone jump effortlessly into the water....saw a 10 year old grommet effortlessly jump out...and proceeded to walk back to the safety of the dry rocks and sit my butt down.

i made a joke to an older guy who was sitting and watching that it wasn't my day, to try and hide my shame at having backed down. anywho, we got to talking and eventually i felt a lot more relaxed. he then asked if i wanted to go out. i said i did. he went and grabbed his board and walked me out onto the edge and together we jumped into the surf.

i made it! not a scratch on the body! not a scratch on the board! not a rock hit!

of course once the initial elation at having successfully manouvered into the surf wore off, i realized it was way too big for me to actually do anything. there were a handful of pros out there so it was fun to watch regardless.

i then paddled in and got myself back over the rocks without a scratch. not one wave caught, but the smile on my face will last all day. i love when you do something you were absolutely terrified of. and i was terrified of getting into this place. plus i made a new friend out of jim. the friendliest guy at lennox! i hope to see him again because when we got out i felt like giving him a hug!

smiles all around!!!!

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